Lately, there seems to be an ongoing theme in the postings as to whether Treasure Beach is a good place to plan a vacation, what does it have to offer, has it recovered from the hurricane and what can people do to help. I would like to extend my viewpoint on these questions. This may take more than a few words. Be prepared for a long read.

My wife and I have just returned from our third visit, in two years, to Treasure Beach and St. Elizabeth (St. Bess). The rainy season lived up to its name, but that was fine as I hope you will understand if you keep reading. One good thing was that we, of the light skin, did not become (unlike other visits) of the brilliant red skin. We stayed, for our third time, at Golden Sands which is one of the many accommodation options that are, literally and directly, on the beach and no more than 100 feet from the ocean. The sounds of the ocean are rhythmic and seductive though it does take a couple of nights to grow used to crashing waves and get a full sleep. The cost of our cottage was reasonable by almost any American or European standard. The amenities, though somewhat limited, are, certainly, sufficient. A balcony overlooks Frenchman’s bay with a beautiful view of the headland to Billy’s Bay on one side and the fishing harbor on the other. The cottage had a full kitchen which allowed us to keep some snacks and prepare one or two meals during our stay. The afternoon sun pours into the balcony (as well as all properties on the beach) and the sunsets are spectacular (especially with a Red Stripe, rum punch or libation of your choice).

Are there attractions and activities accessible to Treasure Beach? Yes, many, though few are within walking distance. Y-S Falls are extraordinarily beautiful, the view from Lover’s Leap is unmatched, Appleton Estates is the cheapest rum buzz in Jamaica and Pelican Bar must be one of the 10 most sublime places on the entire planet. These all require transportation either by car or boat (Pelican Bar). Transportation is easily arranged. There are several companies that will provide day tour service that is still within almost anyone’s budget. We use Treasure Tours, but there are other options. Further, many of the residents are willing to become very informative guides and drivers for a negotiated, but reasonable, price. A number of boat captains await your choice of the aforementioned Pelican Bar, the Black River (crocodiles) or Little Ochie for a shoreline dinner. We always head out with Captain Ted Parchment, but have heard that Captain Allen and Captain Dennis are also good choices.

Is the food affordable and acceptable to American or European palates? If lobster, rice with peas and a Red Stripe for around $12 (American) sounds good to you, then the answer is yes. Treasure Beach, thankfully, remains a fishing village, so the fruits of the sea are the primary entrées. Chicken and curried goat are, also, almost always available at the small, local, restaurants. Depending on availability, they will cost a little less than the lobster and about equal with fish. Jake’s, the largest of the properties in Treasure Beach, offers a broader menu that usually includes some type of beef dish. Jake’s will command a slightly higher price for your meal, but the added sophistication is compensation enough. For Americans who cannot quite get away from the food they know, Jack Sprat actually offers pizza. The Little Treasure Beach restaurant will soon be open (mid November) and from all accounts its menu will be on par with Jake’s. Saturday night is jerk night (sort of like Friday fish fry in the American Midwest). The residents of Treasure Beach all swear by Delvin’s. The jerk chicken and pork are very (fall off the bone) good with just the right amount of spice and flavor. However, if you want options, go early. This last visit, they had run out of chicken by 7:00 pm and the conch soup was gone by early afternoon. South Jammin’ also does jerk during the busy months. I’ve not had it, but it is also busy and not as far to walk for most visitors.

As far as drinking and entertainment goes, a Red Stripe can be purchased for less than $1.50 (American) at any of the little stores. They all function as impromptu bars as soon as more than two individuals are having a beer. Rum drinks will usually range from $2 to $3 (American). Sitting at Jake’s bar and chatting with Dougie (local icon) and Corrine over a rum is one my favorite pastimes. The one true club in town is Fisherman’s. There is a thatched hut up front and a large dance hall behind. It is owned by our friend (also local icon), Vicas. This past visit, we spent several of the stormy afternoons sitting under the thatch and talking with Vicas about Jamaican culture, history and (always) politics. Vicas has one of the strongest souls and brightest smiles I have ever experienced. Well worth the, sometimes, soggy road that leads to his establishment. South Jammin’ is another entertainment option. It is in the middle of town and frequented by a younger (than us) crowd. They have pool tables and lively (as in loud) dance hall reggae. There are several other bars along the main street. They tend to come and go with time and often change ownership and name. Each, in its own way, is appropriate to visitors and guests. If in doubt, go in the early evening before they become crowded to get a sense of the place.

One other form of pastime and activity must be mentioned. There is a perpetual, but constantly changing, beach community just north of Golden Sands on Frenchman’s Bay. This community is composed of Rastafarians and other local residents that choose to make the beach their home. Most of the abodes are modest and small by Jamaican standards. Some have current (electricity), but many do not. Almost none (maybe none) have running water or plumbing. They will sell you a Red Stripe. They will sell you a wood carving. They will sell you a necklace. They will sell you, or get you, anything they can, for an agreed upon price. They are charming and will attempt to charm away some of your money. They are in need. The need is real, though the stories they tell are sometimes not. With this understanding in mind, some of my very best, and most meaningful, moments have been spent with these folks on the beach. This last visit, they organized a bonfire, on the beach, in honor of our 24th wedding anniversary. We supplied the beer, a Dutch couple supplied the fish and the beach community supplied the rice with peas. They also did the cooking. A fantastic, truly memorable, time was had by all until the rain began to fall. Even then, we stayed for a while and danced in the rain. Depending on you inclinations, these individuals are worthy of your attention. Are they honest? This depends on your definition. Are they forthright? Absolutely, they will tell you all their thoughts and desires. Are they enjoyable? They are some of my best friends (at a small cost) in Treasure Beach. Be just a little wary and always kind. They will, genuinely, attempt to accommodate all your needs and adopt you (with commensurate responsibilities on your part). They will also give you your nick name which is an absolute necessity in Jamaica and Treasure Beach. We are Mum and Dad, though I realize that there are, probably, many other Mums and Dads throughout the tourist season.

One question that is seldom asked, but should be answered is whether Treasure Beach is appropriate for young children. In truth, the answer is both yes and no. In a close family, that is capable of entertaining themselves, children staying at one of the properties or villas will have a glorious time running on the beach, collecting sea shells or taking a boat ride to the Black River. However, if the children are expecting amusement rides and cartoon characters, there are none in Treasure Beach. Many of the villas (and I believe Jake’s) have satellite TV and DVDs, but that’s really such a waste in Treasure Beach. Treasure Beach is about enjoying the ocean, the sunsets, the Jamaican culture and the local inhabitants. For mature children (perhaps an oxymoron) that are, not too self absorbed, open to nature and able to appreciate simple pleasures, Treasure Beach should be an excellent experience. Children (or adults for that matter) that require constant stimulation and gratuitous excitement should be taken elsewhere.

Regarding the question of hurricane recovery and what can be done, there are two simple answers. First, most of the serious, outward, damage has been repaired. Great thanks (and Big Ups), to all who donated to the initial relief funds. Almost all of the hotels, properties and villas are operating and open for business. Everything you need to have a great time is available except for maybe ackee and that will soon come. Some homes still show damage and many others have interior water damage that is not as visible. However, the community continues to support and heal itself with limited resources. Second, as stated elsewhere on this site, the single best way to help the recovery is to come and have the best time of your life. It really is that easy. Everyone in Treasure Beach is waiting for your arrival. The beach is still beautiful, the palms still sway in the breeze, the Red Stripe is still cold and the jerk is just coming off the grill. Give the people of Treasure Beach (and yourselves) a High Season better than ever before and they will recover just fine.

So, I come to the end of this long winded piece and I must answer a question of my own. Why do I (we) continue to return to Treasure Beach? Is it for the attractions? In truth, we have seen them all by now (though I will always go to Pelican Bar). Is it because it is “Caribbean Paradise” at very reasonable expense? Well, sure, that is attractive, but I can now, honestly, afford to vacation (go on holiday) pretty much wherever I please. Is it for the eating, drinking and party atmosphere? With a few dollars (or Euros or Pounds) in your pocket, you can do that anywhere in the world. Is it for the excellent wood carvings, bead work and crafts? We now have a room full of such things and it is difficult to leave without acquiring more (as we always will). Is it for the ganja? We constantly perplex the local sellers in that we have very little interest. No, I believe I return to Jamaica, and especially Treasure Beach, to become better educated in the art of being Human. In my visits to Treasure Beach I have learned more about being a decent, compassionate, independent and resourceful person than I ever could in any university course on sociology or anthropology or ethics or even engineering. The residents of Treasure Beach teach me what is truly important in life. They have a very keen sense of what is necessary and what is not. They are friendly, welcoming, proud, inventive, and, ultimately, very understanding of me. They, graciously, endure my constant stream of stupid and misinformed questions with good natured and patient answers. They take of me what I am able to give and they return to me what they are able to provide along with their friendship. For me, Treasure Beach is one of the finest classrooms on earth and I cannot wait to take my next lesson.

If you do go to Treasure Beach, please pet Flora for us. You’ll discover what this means when you get there.


Kim and Peyton Beals
Wrentham, Massachusetts, USA

This was said beautifully, Peyton. Thank you for sharing your thoughts. You are by no means alone with your many reasons for loving Treasure Beach. It is an unbelievably special place.

Peyton,

Thank you you SO much for your wonderful post. We will be traveling for the first time to Treasure Beach in a couple of weeks, but have been to Negril several times. We look very forward (as always) to our trip, and will print out your post to make sure we experience everthing Treasure Beach has to offer.

Your post brought tears to my eyes. It was as if I wrote it. The last paragraph is how my husband and I always describe Jamaica to others. The country has truely changed our lives. I wish Americans could all see it like we have --and learn. The best education I have ever given my children (23, 16 and 13) is the 4 or 5 times we have taken them there. (by the way, my son (16) goes to a Catholic high school and by his own doing, his class ring has the fight Irish man on one side, and the Jamaican Flag on the other. I love that Jamaica is in his heart)

Thank you again--
Maybe we will see you guys there sometime!
Pam

Thanks for taking the time and care to post that Beals.

Are you listening Tourist Board and Co?

Ahh you brave souls that stay among us and can correct, or at least fine tune, some of the tales that circulate about Jamdown and Jamdowners.

Best wishes, turey.

Where do you stay? It sounds wonderful.

You should consider working for the Jamaican Tourist Board.

Thank you for taking the time to write this beautiful piece, Peyton. Very well written.

I too, often visit Treasure Beach and try to explain its magnetism to others but am never quite sure that I've done TB justice in my explanation. Thanks for writing a describtion which also captures my feelings about TBeach.

very well said mr peyton its nice to know that you really took the time out to explain all of what you did and where to go and most of all the way you describe the people in st bess we are truly amazing and im glad that you and your wife had a wonderful time and are looking forward to another trip big up god bless.

Mr. Peyton:

Your posting is one that I will remember for as long as I shall live because you have verbalized for me what life is truly all about...you have put into words for me why my heart yearns for home...you have put into words for me why there is hope for Jamaica Land We Love.

Truly the things in life that bless our hearts every day, are those that money cannot buy. Your piece reminds me of the things that I hold dear...that we should all hold dear. Treasure Beach is a special place and as you so eloquently put it, the lessons that we learn from the people help to remind us that there is still much beauty in the human spirit.

Keep coming back to Treasure Beach, a warm welcome awaits you.

Very well put, Peyton! Elaine and I fell in love with Treasure Beach the first time we visited for the day! We spent a week at Golden Sands in January, and we're "coming home" this January for another 10 day visit (far too short!)The people of Treasure Beach are some of the friendliest folk we've ever had the privilege of knowing. The food is wonderful, the sunsets spectacular, the weather a welcome respite from our North American winters! And having spent several vacations in Negril (which is nice), we much prefer TB, where we can experience true Jamaican culture and hospitality. We too have tried to explain our love of TB to friends and family, and we almost always get that quizzical look when we tell them that cruise ships don't go there. "Why would you want to go there?" You'll just have to experience it for yourself, I guess. Thanks again, Peyton, for eloquently putting into a words a "feel" that's hard to describe. And I'll certainly give Flora a pat on the head!

Let me also join in applause, I 1st came to Treasure Beach in 1995, it was actually raining that day, and i still thought it was a paradise.

every year since i say i am going somewhere else and some time do, but i still need that yearly "St. Elizabeth vibe"

..I am now searching for a plane ticket.


St. Elizabeth forever!!!

What a beautiful piece of writing. Will show it to my friends so I can explain just exactly why we adore Treasure Beach and its lovely people.