Jeannie's Great Bay Trip Report

Treasure Beach Forum: TB Runnin's: Jeannie's Great Bay Trip Report
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeannie Brim on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 12:20 pm: Edit Post

NOTE: this post has been edited to make the links active -TBNet

December 24th , 2008
Arrived in MoBay about 6pm. Went through immigration and customs. Took about 45 min which I thought was a long time since we were the only plane in. The immigration man asked where we were staying. I told him we rented a house in Great Bay and he wanted an address. I explained that our friend in JA hooked us up with it. I just wrote down that road and parish on the immigration form. No big deal and we were on our way. Customs didn't even look in our bags and we were through the gates. We went to the restrooms and changed into our shorts. Now we were ready to leave the airport. Made our way through the maze of baggage handlers and out the door. Our friend Stephanie was waiting for us at the Groovy Grouper. It is the restaurant/bar when you leave the airport doors. After hugs Matt and I had a few smokes and some red stripe to relax, bought some more beer for the road (since Stephanie was driving) and we were on our way to Great Bay!

Montego Bay was PACKED! It was Christmas Eve night so everyone was out and about. The KFC had a line around the block. We were able to buy some peppa shrimp from one of the vendors in the middle of the road. Those shrimps are so delicious. We stopped half way at Central Stop which is just south of Border Jerk on the right. Claudette is the owner and she is so kind. We had a few beers there and chatted for a while. We met Claudette our last trip so it was good to see her again. There was a little boy selling some roasted peanuts and a coconut cookie that reminded me of a no-bake.

Back on the road and through Black River. I have never seen anywhere so busy. Stephanie said even she had never seen the town so full. She found a good place to park. We made Matt stay in the van to watch the luggage while we went out to shop. I wanted to get some fruit and coffee for the mornings. Found some unroasted coffee beans right away, these we brought home. Bought a pineapple and some bananas. The bananas were hard to find for a good price. The first vendor waned 400j, the second lady wanted 300j and the 3rd guy with a push cart wanted 100j and I got to pick which bunch I wanted. I bought from him and they lasted us all week. Before we left Black River we stopped at a supermarket and Matt went in to buy some ground coffee for us to have in the mornings.

We got to our house about 11pm. Stephanie called the owner at Crossroads so he could met us at the house. It is beautiful! There is a fully fenced yard about an acre in size, nice trees and flora. We sat on the veranda and listened to the sea crashing on the shore. Out house was bout 200 yards from the beach. The little grocery store and our favorite bar Benny's "Sea View" are just around the corner about a 2 minute walk. It was dark and there was a new moon so there was hardly any light at all. This made for great stargazing. We went to bed about midnight.

These are some pictures of our house.
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Stephanie if you get to read this, THANK YOU for everything! Our trip would not have been possible without you! I don't know how you do it all. BIG UP TO YOU!

Dec. 25th Christmas Day!
Christmas in Jamaica.
We woke up about 6:45am. The sun rises earlier here than at home and I feel like I am going to miss something if I sleep in. We made some coffee and sat on the veranda. Everyone who passes by waves and wishes us a Merry Christmas. We ate some of our fresh bananas then headed down to the beach.
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The only place open is Sea Splash. This is a nice bar right on Great Bay beach.
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We got some carrot mango juice. It truly is the best juice I have ever had.
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While we are sitting there a familiar face appears. Patrick A.K.A Dingo is walking down the road with his grandson. He approaches us and we share greetings. He is one of our old fisherman friends we met a few years ago. It's about 8am but since we are in good company we get some beer and start drinking. It is Christmas after all. We went back to the house and sat on the veranda a relaxed a bit more.

About 10am we walked down to Ital Rest bar to visit Doreen. On the way we passed Viking's House and said hello to some friends there.

Picture of Vikings House
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The road to Vikings
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We get to Doreen's but she's inside so I yell for her. She knew we were coming today and said she'd be out in a minute. We sat and talked for a couple of hours. It was good to see her again. This is a picture of Doreen and Conga's bar.
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We walked back to the Great Bay beach to see what was cooking. Since it was Christmas, Bev's Chicken was closed and our favorite place to eat Michael's cook shop is not open. He is now the chef at the school. For once I am jealous of school lunches.

We head over to Sea View bar. Benny remembers us so we stay for a bit.

This is a picture of Sea View.
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Now we are really hungry so we decide to walk to Calabash Bay to Jack Sprats. This is a long walk but there is a new road that cuts some time off and you don't have to walk through as much of the goat field.
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and the pond by the road
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a view of the field by the road
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The road starts at ItalRest and drops you at the paved road in front of Taino Cove. From there you take a shortcut through some bush, back to the main road, to Kingfisher Plaza, around the bend and a little ways down is Jakes and Jack Sprats.

Jack Sprats' special today was Escovitch with rice and peas and bammy or festival. The cost was $650jmd (about $9 USD). I also got a bowl of conch soup for $100jmd. When we were done eating we ordered a pizza to go. Jerk Sausage. It will be our dinner and our breakfast. On the walk back home we stopped at M&D Grocery (correct me if this isn't the name) to get some supplies. Got a can of sardines, a pack of water crackers, 2 spice buns, 2 packs of spicy cock soup, 2 Gatorade's and 1 rum cream. Total bill was $640. Not bad at all!

Got back home, chilled for a bit. Went back to Benny's Sea View at Great Bay beach. Drank some beer, visited with people we met on previous trips and got some beer to stock the fridge at home. Got back home and had some jerk sausage pizza and beer. Went to bed at 10pm. It was a great Christmas Day!


Dec. 26th Boxing Day.
Boxing day is a big party day. We woke up at 7:20am. About 8am the music from the beach started. We ate some of our leftover pizza and coffe for breakfast. I added some rum cream to my coffee, and maybe added a bit too much. I finished off the bottle fast and about 1/2 an hour later I threw up. Me and rum cream just don't mix but it is tasty. We grabbed a beer from the fridge and headed down to the beach. It was about noon. The beach was packed today! Around 200 people and for this area that is packed.

This is the sound car that blasts music. It sounds good!
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We swam in the sea and laid in the sun. There were a couple cook shops set up for the day so we bought some soup.
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We walked over to Sea View and watched all of the people. A little while later we went back to the cook shop and bought some Escovitch and festival.
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It was $225jmd for the meal. Bought some boiled corn from lady near the road for $50jmd. We headed home after we ate at got ready for the party tonight. After sunset we went back to the beach. There were several beach fires set up to light the way and a special beer stand that was selling beer for $100j.

We met some awesome people at the party who later in the week we spent more time with. We also ran into some people we were hoping to see. We stayed at the party until about 11pm. We could hear the music (and feel the bass) at our house. Surprisingly it was nice to sleep to. The music went into the early morning hours.


Saturday Dec. 27th,
Today we walked back down to Calabash Bay. We knew that M&D Grocery cooks chicken Friday and Saturdays so we wanted that for lunch. We ate there and it was delicious.
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We know the man cooking. He also owns the thatch bar on Calabash Beach and he is also a fisherman and took us to the Pelican bar twice before. He is a jack of all trades. He's Doreen's (from italrest) nephew.

After eating we headed down to the fruit stand to buy some veggies. He was all out but would be going to the market monday and told us to come back.

We headed back the lane to Fisherman's Night Club. I had never been here but had heard of it. We ordered beer and chatted with the owner and his son. This family was so nice!
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We watched the baby goats play.
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The son Andy showed us around the bar.
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The owner asked us if we'd like to try some of his soup. I was expecting a little cup but he came out with a HUGE bowl of Gungo pea soup for each of us. It was full of peas, chicken and the best dumpling I have ever eaten.
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We were so full since we had just eaten some chicken about an hour earlier but we had to finish it all. We asked how much for the soup and he said no charge. Really nice people at Fisherman's. If you are ever in the area go there! After a few beers we bid farwell and said that we'd be back.

On the walk back home we stopped at M&D Grocery (pretty sure that's the name) to take 2 orders of chicken to go.

We stopped at Italrest bar to have a drink. It looked like it was going to rain soon so we waited to walk home. The rain came and it poured. Conga called us over to the back of the bar to show us a double rainbow.
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We followed the rainbow and actually saw the end of it.
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After the rain I took some pictures of the food growing in their yard.
Ackee Tree
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Gunga Peas
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Pomagranite
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Sunday Dec. 28th
I didn't take any pictures today. Today we walked down to Calabash Bay again. It's a Sunday, most places in Great Bay are closed.
We went back to Fisherman's. Had a few beers there, had some awesome fish tea soup. Our friend Stephanie was going to be in the area later for dinner with the volunteers so we had plans to meet up with her at Jack Sprats. We wasted the day away in Calabash Bay. (That should be their slogan). I also got to meet the world famous dog Flora!

Anyway's we got to Jack Sprats and it was packed! There had been a wedding at the beach earlier that day and the wedding party was there for dinner. We decided to leave and while we were on our way we ran into Stephanie. We all decided to avoid the crowd and go to the new resturant Fisherman's Reef. They had all kinds of food and at a good price. I had brown stew Kingfish with steamed vegtables. I took my leftovers home and it was still tasty the second day.

Stephanie carried us home in the van and dropped us at Italrest bar. We stayed for about an hour then walked home.
Another great day! Sorry no pics today.

Monday Dec. 29th
Woke up early, drank some coffee. I did some laundry this morning before we left and hung it out to dry for the day. After the "chores" were done we headed down to Benny's for a beer.

We had some people to visit up the road today so we headed that way. First was a visit to my friend. It was nice to see her again. They have a nice home with a fabulous view of the Santa Cruz mountains. Guilty's was our next stop. He is a very talented artist in Great Bay. We bought a peice of his art last year. It hangs in our living room and reminds us daily of Jamaica. We spent about an hour talking but we had to go.

View from Great Bay road to the sea
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The fisherman were to be in from sea at 11am. We had plans with Dingo to meet up and buy some lobster form him. We waited down at Benny'y and watched the boats come in. It was amazing to see all of the lobsters!
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While I was watching them weight the lobsters the guy told me hold this one.
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It was 10lbs! My arm got tired. I think he was just seeing how long I could hold onto it because he sorted every single lobster while I held it. It was difficult to hang onto because it kept snapping his tail.

Patrick aka Dingo came in from sea and we bought 6 lobsters for $1000jmd. The going rate is $200 per pound. The 10lb lobster was called a "resort lobster". They can use it in soup or a stew.

We took our lobsters home and put them in the fridge to let them chill out.

We headed back down to Benny's again and on our way, Otis who we met on Boxing Day called us over to a new bar on the beach. Otis is the cousin of one of our friends (whose wife I had gone to see that morning). We had a few beers and met alot of nice people. After talking we started to figure out who was related. It's nice to be in a community where everyone looks out for one another.
We met Richard who was from Great Bay and now lives in Canada. I told him I was going to put his picture in my trip report and he said that was cool.
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We all stayed for quite a while sharing rounds of beer. We were getting hungry and asked Otis if he'd help us cook our Lobsters. He said no problem, we just had to find the firewood. We combed the beach, gathered a bunch and took it back. Rasta Bob let us use his grill and he machetted our wood into peices for us. Bob is a very nice man and in April he chased away a guy who was rude and bothersome towards us. We appreciate what he has done for us.

This is a picture of his cat
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Here are pictures of our roasting lobster.
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I went to the supermarket and bought some REAL New Zealand butter. Benny gave me some lemons too. It was a great meal with great people.

This was the sunset of a perfect day.
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After the sunset and great meal we decided to walk down to ItalRest for some drinks and great company.

Tuesday Dec. 30th
Today we really didn't do much at all. This was what our Jamaica Staycation was all about. We went to Benny's again. While we were sitting at Sea View Dingo asked us if we wanted to go up and see his house. He was making fish pots and we wanted to see how it was done.

Fish Pots
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I never relized how much work and expensive fish pots are. I learned that on average a fish pot lasts 6-8 months before the sea ruins them. The best wire is from Belgium and it can last a year or more.

Chicken Coupe
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Most chicken coupes are built off the ground so the mongoose can't kill and eat the chickens.

Speaking of chicken, for dinner we went to Bev's Chicken across from the SeaCrab and ate chicken. For 330j you get a quarter of fried chicken smothered in a great sauce, slaw, rice and peas and mac and cheese. We also bought some to go for later.

This is a picture of the sunset on our walk home.
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Wednesday Dec. 31st, NEW YEARS EVE!
Today we had alot to do. We had to start collecting the things we were going to bring home. We walked down to Calabash Bay again. We stopped at Mermaid Art Gallery located at Calabash House. This is a guesthouse the rents rooms or the whole house. The entire place is a work of art in itself. Really amazing!

We stopped all along the way at every little store collecting items like soups, spices, ketchup, tea and all the other geat Jamaican foods that we can't get at home. We stopped and had breakfast at a new little breakfast spot across the street from Jack Sprats.
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We both had ackee and saltfish with coffee and I also ordered a pineapple juice.
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The man with the fruit stand was open and he was fully stocked. We bought 2 potatoes a.k.a irish, 1 onion and 2 carrots.
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On the walk home we stopped at the womens center and bought 2 tea lights for matt's mom and sister. They are handmade and painted candle domes that when you light them, the cut out stars illuminate on your walls and ceiling.

We were walking down the lane carrying way too much when we saw a car coming. He stopped and asked if we needed a lift. He was staying at Wild Pines next door to Italrest so we hopped in. Thanks again Bert! We looked like crazy people carrying so much for such a long way.

He dropped us at Italrest then we walked the rest of the way home. When we got home we made some spicy cock soup/vegetable. We used the veggies we bought this morning and some scalions from the garden in front of our house.
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It was New Years Eve so we got ready and headed down to the beach. There is a big party at Jakes tonight and Sanchez is performing after the fireworks. Admission in $1000j. We decided not to go and just stay in Great Bay. We ran into Willy who we had met earlier in the week. He is cousins with the owner of our house. We had a few beers at Benny's until they closed shop at 10pm. They were going to Calabash for the fireworks.

Willy took us down to SeaCrab where we had a few drinks. After we left SeaCrab, we didn't have many options left since most people went to Calabash Bay, so Willy called his friend Ever who opened up his bar on the beach for us. We stayed there and watched the fireworks at Jakes from Great Bay beach. After the fireworks, Ever played Sanchez. Just like at Jakes but for free. We played Domino's for hours upon hours, chatted and had a great time. Ended up at home a little after 1am. This was one of the best New Year Eve's I've had in a while. We had a great time! Thank you Willy and Ever!

Jan 1st 2009, NEW YEARS DAY
Today is another BIG party day. The music started early. Same as all of the other days, we went down to Benny's. Some of the fisherman had gone out early that morning and came in with kingfish, baracuda and cross bow.
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We just hung our on the beach today. Laid in the sun, swam and ate. The cookshop was open again so we ate some more escovitch. The lady with boiled corn and soup was also there.
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After a day at the beach we went to Bev's chicken for dinner. Then we headed down to Italrest bar for a talent show. A bunch of the kids in the neighborhood were performing songs or skits. Some of the women from the Treasure Beach woman's center sang some Jamaican folk songs and a few people danced or recited poetry. We were asked to partake in a game where the husband has to guess his wife by feeling her head, nose, hand etc..when it was Matt's turn they moved me from #3 to #6. When he told them #3, there was another lady standing there. Matt participated in the arm wrestling contest after much coaxing. It was a fun time!
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After the talent show we walked home and sat on the veranda a listened to the music coming from the beach.

Friday Jan 2nd, 2009
Today was another day of doing nothing. We went down to Benny's and hung out. The meat truck came around today.
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It's a mobile butcher shop. You just tell them what cut of meat you want, they cut it and weigh it all right there from the truck. Really interesting to watch.

Matt and Benny chatting at SeaView
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We swam a little in the afternoon then went home to take a nap. The nap worked out great because as soon as we laid down, it started to rain. The sound of the rain on the tin roof was so soothing. It poured for about 3 hours. I woke up, sat on the veranda and watched the birds pick off the frogs. It was funny to watch the birds fight over frogs. http://i194.photobucket.com/albums/z97/jeannie_brim/Jamaica%20Dec%2008/CIMG0986. jpg

Later in the afternoon we headed back down to the beach. Just hung around for a while then went home and climbed in bed.

I forgot to mention that the mosqitos this time of year are aweful! We bought some coils at the store, they really help! They are an incense coil that you light and smoke out the bugs. Make sure to ventilate your rooms after using them. I am still a little itchy from the bites (some may be sand fleas) but it is SO WORTH IT! By the end of our stay I don't think I was as tasty to them, the bites seemed to be dwindeling.

Saturday Jan. 3rd 09
This is our last full day. We have no plans, like all of the other days. I am very sad today, I don't want to leave. I do miss my dogs though. Speaking of dogs I noticed on this trip alot more people are caring better for their animals. Alot of people with dog houses and even walking their dogs on leashes. This made me happy.

We went back to Benny's and said goodbye to everyone there. Our friend Willy showed up with a bag of boiled crab for us. All we had to do was heat them up.
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We walked up the hill and said goodbe to my friend and her kids. While we were there her husband called who was in the US at the time. We were sorry our paths did not cross but we said we'd see him next trip. We walked down to Italrest bar to say goodbye to Doreen and Conga and the kids. It was hard not to cry the entire day.

We went down to Great Bay beach and had one last swim and laid in the sun for about an hour. Then we went back home and ate crab. Took about 2 hours to eat all the crab. It's alot of work getting out the meat but they are good!
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There is a wake going on tonight at the beach and we were invited. It isn't a sad event like at home but a big party. We had to wake early the next day so we stayed in. We heard the music all night and I think the party ended somewhere around 5am.

This was the sunset of our final night.
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Sunday Jan 4th 2009
Leaving day. I had a lump in my throat all day. We woke early at 6:30 to watch the sunrise. Satchwell was going to pick us up at 7:45. We walked down to the beach. All was quite. Peaceful and serene. Anyone who has a love for Jamaica like we do knows the broken heart feeling when you have to leave. We stopped to say goodbye to Stephanie before we left. The drive to the airport was nice. Satchwell is a great driver and very friendly. We got to the airport at 10:30am. Our flight was at 1:20pm. 3 hours later we were through all of the checkpoints. It was very busy and very slow. Boarded the plane and off we went. Till next time...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Simmi on Tuesday, January 20, 2009 - 07:29 pm: Edit Post

So nice. Any way you could post all the pictures so we don't have to keep putting them into our browser one by one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Coppa on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 09:12 am: Edit Post

Great trip summary. The pictures make it seem as though I am right back home with you. Love it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By de twisted sista on Wednesday, January 21, 2009 - 05:58 pm: Edit Post

sweet, thanks so much for taking the time to share your treasure beach experience and your photos with us
your effort is greatly appreciated


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joe & Jean on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 07:40 am: Edit Post

Nice trip report and pictures - enjoyed it! Where did you stay?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeannie_brim on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 12:05 pm: Edit Post

Thanks everyone for the kind words.
Joe & Jean, we stayed at a house owned by Donovan. It is on the main road in great bay next door to the white church closest to the sea. Across the road is Pelican's Reach guesthouse. http://www.italjamaica.com/greatbay.htm
Is the website on which I found the rental.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By native son on Thursday, January 22, 2009 - 11:31 pm: Edit Post

I am just grateful that you took the time to share all these pictures and details. It's so enjoyable to see familiar faces and places. You are amazingly down to earth and your humility (and humanity) is so refreshing. Thank you both.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By JahGal on Friday, January 23, 2009 - 01:55 pm: Edit Post

That was awesome! Thanks so for much for sharing!
It's like I just took a 10 min trip to JA.. I was engrossed!
=)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ohliz on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 01:45 pm: Edit Post

Jeannie's photos can be viewed all at once by going to her album: http://s194.photobucket.com/albums/z97/jeannie_brim/Jamaica%20Dec%2008/

Loved the report Jeannie!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeannie_brim on Tuesday, January 27, 2009 - 02:52 pm: Edit Post

Thanks Ohliz! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By HI-FIVE on Wednesday, January 28, 2009 - 09:12 am: Edit Post

Jeannie Brim thank you for sharing your trip with us ,in word and pictures .even though i am alittle jealous ,i am glad you enjoyed yourself and was able to show us other area of Treasure Beach ,such as the beautiful beach of Great Bay (thank you very much).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Maro22 on Sunday, February 01, 2009 - 12:05 pm: Edit Post

Jeannie... The house you rented is pretty close to my land site in the Olde Wharf area. Taino Cove, the nice hotel is about 100 meters away. I am glad that you had such a nice time. The Treasure Beach area is changing. I am also glad to see animals better cared for.